International dishesSauces and DipsFranceAbout 30 minutes
Hollandaise is the basic lesson in emulsions in a European kitchen. The sauce is golden, rich and smooth with a light sourness, and poured over poached eggs or asparagus it turns a plate into something special. Heat is the hardest part, because a few degrees either way splits the sauce or scrambles the yolks.
The butter has to go in as a thin thread with constant whisking, since pouring it in at once ruins everything. The pan and the bowl should be close in diameter so steam cannot escape past the rim and thin the sauce.
This batch weighs about 372g, at roughly 482 calories per 100g.
Method
Melt 225g butter in a heavy pan over medium heat and skim the foam. Once the butter is clear, strain it through a sieve or muslin and hold it at 60 degrees C.
Simmer 75ml water with 14ml lime juice, 3g salt and 1g ground white pepper until it reduces to about 25ml, then let it cool.
Add the reduction to 3 egg yolks and whisk until light and airy.
Set a pan of hot water on the stove, sit the bowl of yolks over it, keep the water at a bare simmer and whisk until the mixture thickens.
Lift the bowl off the pan and pour in the butter slowly, whisking all the while. When the mixture gets too thick, add a splash of water and carry on until all the butter is in.
Add a little cayenne pepper, taste for a light sourness and hold the sauce warm at 60 degrees C.
Tips
Temperature during whisking decides everything: too low and the sauce stays thin, too high and the yolks set into curds.
A thread of butter at a time with constant whisking keeps the sauce from splitting.
A split sauce can be saved by whisking a fresh yolk in a clean bowl and pouring the broken sauce into it slowly.
Use a heavy stainless steel or glass bowl, as a thin one heats fast and cooks the yolks in patches.
This sauce is served warm, since it sets as it cools and never whisks back to the same smoothness.
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